“We’ll must get some helmets if we maintain doing issues like this,” Christine quipped as we regrouped on an alpine ridgeline at properly over 13,000 ft. The climb to the saddle had been unfastened, scrambly, and uncovered, and we might needed to put a considerable security hole between ourselves as a result of unfastened rock and sliding scree that stored threatening to interrupt unfastened and cascade down the mountainside at a second’s discover. I agreed along with her, however that did not assist us a lot within the second: miles and miles from civilization and some hundred ft beneath the imposing summit of 13,780-foot Golden Horn.
Regardless of how intimidating the summit ridge appeared, by that time, we had already made it by way of the surprising crux transfer. Whereas I imagined we might encounter prolonged scrambling on the summit ridge, essentially the most technical and uncovered strikes turned out to lie far beneath the ridge on the strategy to the saddle. After over a mile of inauspicious trail-less scree strolling and climbing, we traversed underneath a vertical cliff band on the mountainside to succeed in the one logical slot within the face. We had been in a position to piece it collectively with out an excessive amount of problem, however there have been undoubtedly a couple of ethereal strikes on rotten rock.
From the saddle, the ascent to the summit was technical and scrambly however fairly easy: up, up, and away! The summit block turned out to be completely stupendous: barely massive sufficient for 4 individuals to sit down (when you had been all very pleasant), with otherworldy 360-degree views of the rugged San Juan mountains throughout us. Beneath, we noticed the unbelievable hue of the ice-blue Ice Lake, which we had camped close to the night time earlier than. The rocky ridgeline forming the horizon of the basin appeared insanely rugged and imposing from above! And off within the distance, the infinite ridges of the San Juan Mountains fashioned the skyline. Whereas FATMAP mentioned that Telluride was simply over the subsequent ridge, the vertical rock partitions obscured it from view.
I really like climbing peaks if you really feel such as you’re truly on prime of a peak on the prime. On some 14ers, like Sherman, you might play a recreation of final frisbee on the extensive, flat “summits.” However the tiny summit block of Golden Horn is perhaps the perfect peak I’ve sat on… ever.
Fortunately, we did not must share it with anyone else. On the ascent, we noticed one different couple descending off the mountain through a special route, and other than that sole duo, we had been the one individuals on Golden Horn. After the madhouse that was the Ice Lake Basin, I used to be astonished on the solitude we loved on the mountain.
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We arrived on the Ice Lake Basin trailhead simply earlier than 7am on a Saturday morning, absolutely anticipating the trailhead to be busy. In any case, “Ice Lakes,” because it’s usually referred to as, has change into often called the perfect day hike within the San Juan Mountains. However I wasn’t ready for the utter mayhem we encountered. Earlier than the daylight had even hit the trailhead, the car parking zone was full, with vehicles starting to line the slender street resulting in the trailhead. We had already pushed previous over 100 rigs camped alongside the windy gravel street heading into the mountains. As we contemplated what to do—we needed to park the van in a protected spot for our in a single day backpacking journey—the perimeters of the roads shortly stuffed up. We reluctantly opted to park alongside the street, though fortunately, I noticed one solitary particular person leaving their spot within the lot and shortly moved the van to a safer location.
Whereas loads of different individuals had been backpacking in or out of Ice Lake Basin, it isn’t well-known as an in a single day spot. The hike to the lake and again is definitely achievable as a day hike, and even a direct ascent of Golden Horn would solely whole 10.6 miles and 4,000 ft of climbing round-trip—on par with many peak hikes within the state. Nevertheless, we had been making ready for an extended backpacking tour within the coming weeks and determined that we would have liked a straightforward in a single day to shake down some new gear and guarantee our techniques had been dialed. The attractive Ice Lake Basin and a #onepeakaweek summit appeared like the right mixture.
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The path to the lake was clogged with different individuals, starting from some climbers who had spent a number of days within the basin tagging a lot of the 13ers ringing the lakes to a vacationer mountain climbing in Crocs with a chihuahua on a leash (she made it up, however appeared like she was already in ache at the start of the descent). It is powerful when everybody has the identical concept and desires to go to the identical place for a similar motive. You will not imagine that my images precisely replicate the mind-bending blue hue of Ice Lake and the unbelievable turquoise of Island Lake except you do the hike your self and see them with your personal eyes.
However fortunately, we nonetheless managed to seek out a terrific campsite and have a really nice night within the alpine. Whereas we needed to shelter from a couple of rainstorms that swept by way of, the storms had been mellow and fortunately bereft of the excessive winds and lightning that usually accompany monsoon climate. The thunder and lightning would descend upon the basin by mid-day on Sunday, as we had been already down out of the alpine and on our hike out to the van.
As a result of crowds on the lake, I assumed for positive extra individuals could be climbing the slew of simply accessible 13ers that kind the spectacular skyline of the basin, but we had been solely one in all two teams on Golden Horn that day. Whereas I’ve climbed a number of 13ers through the years, the solitude on the peaks remains to be so surprising and pleasant. Whereas the 54 (or 58, relying on the way you depend them) 14ers within the state are swarmed with climbers day-after-day of the week, all summer time lengthy, the close by 13ers—that are simply as lovely, and fairly often much more difficult and rewarding—stay fully deserted.
A part of me worries that writing about 13ers will solely assist encourage extra crowds to desert the 14ers and head to the decrease peaks, however actually, that appears unlikely at this level. There is a motive that climbers flock to the tallest, most distinguished, most technical, and most lovely mountains: you may’t climb all of them. Even when you’re one in all a choose few who’ve climbed all of the 14ers and 13ers in Colorado, what about all of the 12-ers? What concerning the different states? What about different nations, different continents?
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You possibly can by no means climb all of them, and so, when confronted with this dilemma, most individuals will merely choose to climb one of many iconic 14,000-foot summits, leaving the lowly 13,780-foot summits like Golden Horn to these of us who’re involved in having a actual journey.
Nevertheless you select to investigate it, reaching the highest of a gorgeous Colorado mountain peak is a euphoric accomplishment! As we sat on the highest of Golden Horn, shit-eating grins on our faces, we could not assist however surprise: what peak can be subsequent?!
The description of the climb and the summit experience really captures the thrill of mountaineering. It’s impressive how you found solitude in such a popular area.
It’s interesting to hear about the contrast between crowded trails and less frequented peaks. It makes me consider exploring more of the 13ers.
I appreciate your insights on climbing strategies and gear preparation. The challenge of climbing seems rewarding when done safely.
The imagery in your writing is captivating, especially regarding Ice Lake’s colors. Nature really does provide some breathtaking views.
Your experience highlights the importance of planning and being adaptable in outdoor adventures. It’s great that you found a good campsite despite the crowds.